We also crossed another gorge on the Sky Bike, a two-person, pedal-powered tandem that is a shorter and more energetic version of the Dragonfly Canopy Gondola, and got up-close-and-personal with dozens of hummingbirds, thanks to the nectar-filled feeders that the guides gave us. On other expeditions, guides intrigued us with facts about butterflies and their behaviours at the lodge's Life Center, a research space and breeding hub where dozens of chrysalises hung in glass containers. The Dragonfly Canopy Gondola is just one of the many activities designed to drop guests right into the thick of the cloud forest while learning about its fauna, flora and conservation efforts. It also uses camera traps to monitor animals and track movement patterns, where images are analysed by researchers at Mashpi's Research Centre, a small laboratory next to the lodge. The lodge uses "forest guardians", a set of 10 solar-panelled audio recorders dotted around the reserve, capable of detecting the rev of a chainsaw and subsequently alerting on-site rangers to this illegal activity. The entire group fell silent as we glided across the gorge and the sweeping views of tree-covered mountains cutting through swirling mist came into sight.Īs we drifted along, our guide told us about the lodge's conservation initiatives within the Mashpi Reserve, designed to protect the very ecosystem we were observing. It was peaceful and quiet compared to the jungle's chatter down below and surprisingly calming, even for someone terrified of heights like me. Sitting in the open-top metal grid cabin with just enough room for five people and dangling 200m over the forest floor while eye level with the cloud forest's treetops was less hair-raising than I expected. The alternative livelihood is logging or gold mining, which are environmentally destructive and have already taken their toll on the Chocó Cloud Forest, where just 2% of its original vegetation remains. Tourism means these communities can survive. The lodge might attract luxury travellers but it is firmly rooted in the local community, with at least 80% of the Mashpi staff coming from the surrounding region. The design is contemporary and minimal with earthy tones and huge glass windows, creating a continuous harmony between building and forest. A luxury hotel isn't what you expect to see at the end of a dirt track lined with ferns the size of parasols and trees so lush and high that they block out the sun. I had arrived in Mashpi Lodge by van the day before after making the three-hour, ear-popping descent from Quito's lofty altitude into the heart of the cloud forest. Words like "immersive" and "eco-tourism" are often overused in the travel industry, but Mashpi Lodge, a boutique hotel placed in the middle of a steamy Ecuadorian jungle, couldn't be truer of these concepts. The morning sun filtered between the tree trunks of the dense, mist-filled Chocó Cloud Forest as I watched colourful butterflies and vibrant tanagers flutter among the branches – all from the comfort of my bed with just a glass wall separating me and the outside world.
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